严冬冬
1984.11.16 - 2012.07.09
自由登山者，自由职业翻译
老布与Kyle的爱德加东壁简报
- 发表时间：2010-11-19
- 老布与Kyle的爱德加东壁简报
标签： 爱德加 东壁 新路线 简报 分类： 登山2010-11-19 21:45
爱德加峰（海拔6618米）东壁新路线
攀登者：Bruce Normand，Kyle Dempster
该山峰第二次登顶
攀登过程：
第0天（2010年11月6日）：到达磨西镇，会见联络官李宗利
第1天，雨：从新兴乡（2050米）徒步上升到小南门关沟内的大本营（3200米），当地背夫1人协助运送装备
第2天，多云：沿河谷上升到东壁下的冰川上，在4100米处宿营
第3天，晴：结组沿冰川上升到5500米东壁脚下宿营
第4天，晴：从5500米攀登到6000米，前300米为冰雪地形攀登，之后是1段绳距的混合攀登（M6）和3段绳距的攀冰（WI5），在6000米露宿
第5天，晴间多云：从6000米攀登到6200米的南山脊上，地形为陡峭/垂直的冰壁及混合攀登，共5段绳距，之后在山脊上宿营
第6天，晴转雪：从6200米沿南山脊登顶，时间为下午2:30，之后沿南山脊及南侧冰川结组下撤到5700米宿营
第7天，多云转雪：结组沿冰川下撤至4300米
第8天，雪：从4300米撤回3400米的简易公路边，搭车回到磨西（2010年11月14日）
2nd ascent of Mt. Edgar, climb by Kyle Dempster (USA) and Bruce Normand (UK).
Day 0 (6th Nov): meet liaison officier Mr. Li Zongli in Moxi.
Day 1: rainy day. Walk from upper Xinxing (2050m) to lower base camp (3200m). 1 local porter carrying equipment.
Day 2: cloudy day. Scrambling in unstable river drainages from 3200m to upper base camp at 4100m on glacier below E Face of Mt. Edgar.
Day 3: sunny day. Roped walking/climbing/glacier travel in glacial gully from 4100m to 5500m directly below E Face of Mt. Edgar.
Day 4: sunny day. Ice and snow-climbing from 5500m to 5800m. 1 dry-tool pitch (M6). 3 ice pitches (WI5) to 6000m. Sitting bivouac in E Face.
Day 5: sun and some clouds. Steep/vertical ice and mixed climbing for 5 pitches from 6000m to exit col at 6200m.
Day 6: sunny morning, snowy afternoon. Ice and snow-climbing on S Ridge from 6200m to summit (6618m, 2:30pm). Descent by S Ridge and southerly glacier to 5700m, roped glacier walking/climbing. (summit 12th Nov)
Day 7: cloudy morning, snowy afternoon. Descent of glacier (roped glacier walking and rappelling) from 5700m to 4300m.
Day 8: snowing. Completion of descent (rappelling and hiking) from 4300m to road at 3400m and return to Xinxing. (return to Moxi 14th Nov)
http://thefreespirits.blog.sohu.com/162920252.html